One of the things I promised myself about my time in Paris is that I would eat well, take cooking lessons and travel outside of the 6th Arrondissement for both. The past couple of days have been a real treat in trying to stay true to this promise.
Keep in mind the 6th is no slouch when it comes to food. Le Comptoir is one of my favorite restaurants in the world. Almost every food critic in the world agrees with me (though many discovered it AFTER my friend and former co-worker turned me onto it). It is exactly three blocks from the apartment I've been lucky enough to stay at time and time again and I love it there. Each time I've left with a new story, a new favorite dish and a very special Parisian memory. If you get a chance, go! Then there are countless of other bistros including Allard and L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon (technically in the 7th but, oh, so close). So why should I leave?
Well, even some place as fantastic as the 6th can grow "normal" after a while. Plus, it is time that I made Paris a little more of my own (as opposed to my aunt's, my ex's, or my friends). So over the last 72 hours, I've barely been in my neighborhood except to have a kir vin blanc at the local pub with free wi-fi.
On Wednesday, I ventured to Montparnesse for a simple, yet delicious bistro lunch at Cafe L'Atelier (no relation to Robuchon one). Directly across from La Coupole, a well-worn Paris icon, this simple sidewalk cafe features quality carpaccio (raw meat had better be good), nice wine and great people watching. For half the price of Coupole, too. I was supposed to meet B. afterwards at the Foundation Henri-Cartier-Bresson but how I ended up not getting there is a blog post all on its own (who knew there was also a Foundation Cartier).
Instead we met up later that night for a talk by three Americans making their living in Paris and both the history and total lust for perfect Parisian patisserie. Of the three authors, Dorie Greenspan was the one I was least familiar with and most instantly fell in love with. She is a pixie and her descriptions of macaroons, cakes, pastisseries, and the personalities behind them was like watching a 100-times better version of myself describing similar things. She clearly loves food, isn't afraid of butter and loves sharing her thoughts and expertise with the public. Alec Lobrano was also a delight.
Shy and awkward but a total natural in front of the crowd, he is the most comfortable with the fact that he is an unashamed eater, not a chef. So nice to see a real person, albeit a passionate one talk about a love of food that can still make room for a Pepperidge Farm cookie or two. David Lebovitz was, well, exactly what you would expect from his blog. Funny, self-affacing and someone with clever and interesting tips about living and eating in Paris.
Fresh from there talk, I was ready to devour pastries but we were (and this is not a bad thing) on the hunt for more substantive fare. We tried, and failed, to score a table at two of Christian Constant's four restaurants, most especially Les Cocottes. Instead we ended up in the ever trendy and totally packed Rue Cler neighborhood and found perfectly good frites, good wine and heat lamps (the temps are dropping here in Paris). While one person found their Hollandaise wanting, the eggs benedict included bacon which made everything worth while.
Today was a six hour class with Paule Caillat. This bundle of everything that it means to be Parisian picks you up outside Stohrer Patissier (one of the oldest in all of Paris and in the 3rd) on the Rue de Montorgueil. From there we shopped at an ever-dwindling supply of speciality merchants. A butcher, a fish monger, an amazing produce stand, several boulangeries, cafes and a fantastic cheese shop (though not as good as La Fromagerie 31 in the 6th, but the cheese guy is way, way cute), etc.
Exhausted from our shopping, we headed back to Paule's (the "e" is silent) home and set about making a four course meal that included Soup de Moules au Safran, Agneau Braise, Tarte au Citron (with most amazingly simple crust, ever), a cheese course and cafe and chunks of amazing 65% Venezuela chocolat noir. I will be making all of this meal when I'm back in DC, either in its entirety or dish-by-dish.
Paule's is the type of cooking class I like. Lots of digressions, some passionate outbursts (no matter what you do, don't slice all the bread), great stories by both the hostess and the guests (I was joined by a young retired couple from Berkley and a doctor from Sweden, now living in Boston), some wine, and lots of laughs.
You weren't expected to know how to slice or dice anything. Just know to hold the knife by the handle and not the blade and you're ahead of the game. Some might find this boring but I found it interesting, comfortable and, most of all, yummy. I may do somethings differently but I tell you that I walked away learning to make a mussel soup and a pie crust that may even rival my grandmother's (I'll have to ask my aunt, to be sure).
Plus, Paule was full of tips on where to pie artisnal pottery, get my nails down, get a facial and where to find a fantastic hole-in-the-wall patisserie. So in all, money and time well spent.
Next up: tomorrow I'm dining at Hidden Kitchen. I've lamented the fact that my mother got a reservation with this unique, independent dining experience before I did but they had a cancellation so I'm headed there tomorrow night.
Pictures above: Paule Caillat talking about sweetbreads and ofal while we shop; the Eiffel Tower at night; and fresh cherry tomatoes from Provence.
